Ta ta… for now!

This Mumbaiker has officially left the city… much to her dismay!  It’s funny, I came across two German backpackers who were moping around the city the other day – asking what the matter was they proceeded to berate the food, the people, the smell,

the buildings and everything in between at tedium. While I expected myself to rebuke their comments, the extent of how protective I was over the city came at a bit of shock even to me! How dare these ignoramuses call my smelly, rude, polluted and

I had the whole team try decide what I would like best – resulting in an impromptu banquet!

dilapidated city horrible?!

So back to life, I was lucky enough to go on another field visit where this time I was able to play (learn) alongside the children from Dharavi slum. Considered some of the most underprivileged of peoples, never have I met such friendly and politely confident kids in my life! Ended up having to “even numbers out”, this didi (like teacher?) got amongst the soccer drills. Although

Here everyday, he was a sugarcane-juice-maker and I have not the foggiest what use the goat was to him?

daunted by having to focus my foot-eye co-ordination beyond walking, the activities that required you to try kick in a straight line were manageable, instead it was

Favourite evening stroll after work was along the famous Chowpatty beach – pretty surreal for the heart of the city!

running around tapping cones 30cm from the floor that was just too much for this old girl! After many giggles and (much needed) encouragement, the Magic Bus bus (or maybe just the “Magic Bus”..?) came to pick up the kids and take them back home to Dharavi, the second largest slum in Asia and most densely populated area in Mumbai (no mean feat I can tell you that much for free). Probably best known now for the few snippet scenes in Slumdog Millionaire it was the constant talk about the area and now my exposure to these incredible kids, that I decided to take a tour through the

I wish I looked that happy doing my washing!

neighbourhood. As someone who is fundamentally opposed to the concept of a “slum tour” – people profiting from showcasing a city’s poorest to privileged foreigners who, if the situation

Takeaway pineapple – my favourite!

were reversed, would cause the greatest stink if strangers came poking around their homes and families – this decision came as a bit of a shock to me. Nonetheless, I had befriended the couple who were running the tour company and, more importantly, its sister NGO and was completely satisfied that these were the “good guys”; using the tour as an eye-opener as well as an income for their invaluable developmental programs for the children and adults alike. The only

It took me three more days until I eventually found out what I had eaten here.. Water chestnuts apparently?

problem: because they were so darn responsible, respectful and wholesome all cameras were forbidden – argh it was such a great initiative so even I couldn’t argue with it, but boy was it hard!

So excited about the photo yet so conscious of his teeth, it was evidently an internal battle whether to smile or not!

So back to the tour that I went on.. Blown away! Honestly, our perception of slums is so grossly distorted that while we think of them as an unhygienic, dangerous mess, it is in fact an orderly, populous and profitable locality! To be fair, having seen the conditions (every house has lights and running water!) I asked whether this was the exception

Had to be done – with a stiff whisky on the rocks!

and found out that provided the slum was “legal” (all those built before 1 January 2000) then the government would provide the utilities (at a cost), but they would be able to effectively live free of taxes, while

She had me at her glasses!

illegal settlements are never guaranteed public facilities and are vulnerable to demolition at any time, so naturally the quality of life there is comparatively much worse. Back in Dharavi though, half of the inhabited area is strictly dedicated to commercial enterprises and not just tinkering tailors, but a leather industry said to have an annual turnover of $500 million and one of the countries largest plastic recycling facilities . As the guides say, it is not the slum dwellers

who are the poorest in the city, but rather those on the streets –

Bhel – my most bestest snack!

living in a slum is merely a densely populated community, with intense social ties that enables doctors, taxi drivers and chai wallahs alike to live in this exorbitantly priced city. Hmm, in saying that though, rent is by no means cheap… Rs 3, 000/month (NZ$ 60) for 10 square feet, coupled with dismal wages, is not an easy ask and it makes sense that in some ways it is a

Selling the all important pan!

desirable address! In fact, a government scheme trying to “house” the slum dwellers in concrete high risers as been greeted with disdain, despite the en suite facilities

Passed these ladies every morning and formed a bond that will transcend time itself

(Ok that is a massive down side of slum life.. the shared bathrooms and rubbish disposal are horrendous) and larger living space, families refuse to move into the buildings for fear of losing the community spirit. This is clearly indicative that while times can be tough, the sense of camaraderie tends to prevail and that, as one of the safest spots in Mumbai, desperation and squalor do not bring out the worst in people. After some contemplation, I have come to the conclusion that it is actually those with influence, prosperity and entitlement that are the most destructive to the individual and society as a whole… Nicky you cynical cynic!

I have never seen anyone so stoked with having a photo taken!

And so, on that note I shall recount to you the greatest Indian phenomenon… the persistent and bemusing habit of all coconut

Team drinks

stalls to congregate together, despite no other such vendors in a mile radius! Now this is not unique to coconut wallahs, and when searching far and wide, for hours on end for something in particular (whether it be veges, nail clipppers, thali or peeled garlic (best.invention.ever)) you are almost guaranteed to find them all in one place, with no discernible difference in quality or presentation of product. Alas, what is business tact when

It never gets easier to see

social lives are at stake? Whats more, when you do eventually crack the code as to where these gatherings (for lack of a better word) are being held, they will invariably be slap bang in the middle of the road, although no problem in and of itself, the result is

Surprisingly really gonna miss this!

a zillion pedestrians sharing the road with a zillion cars, auto’s, motorbikes as well as two zillion cows – how my toes are still attached to my feet I have no idea! An even more perplexing issue is the deal of meals on wheels.. sweet potatoes roasting on hot coals, piles of dates and pineapples are all pushed around throughout the day on a trestle table on wheels – but can you ever find one when you need one (spoiler: no).. I have literally spent a whole hour trawling the clustered nighttime streets on a quest for papaya, only to have to “settle for” an omelette (natural substitute) and then have the papaya man cheerily pop around the corner. Nice.

Now it has not all been soul searching and street diving, and as always Mumbai has offered up the greatest array of festivities and funtivities! From an open-mic night in a local theatre to a farmers market with a strumming guitar trio to a brunch with unlimited food and alcohol (too

10pm on a Sunday night getting involved in teh Celebrate Bandra festivities – perfection!

dangerous) as well as “Celebrate Bandra” (my suburb) a festival

for the 10 days preceding my departure. Meaning that in addition to the regular delights, we were all treated to a fabulous crafts market, local street art initiatives and at least three daily music performances (in halls and boardwalks alike) to name a few, and my personal highlight… a community kickboxing class on the promenade! The attempt of punching air was amusing in itself, but hilarious when coupled with us all being hustled onto a stage  causing a near traffic jam by rubber necking auto drivers!

So if this awesome city wasn’t hard enough to say goodbye to, Magic Bus sure put the cherry on the top! Not only has the organisation been a complete eye-opener into the incredible potential of sport as a developmental tool, but the people I have worked with have

Packing up my mid-arvo snack

been fun, friendly and so jolly inspirational! Working with the most marginalised people and simultaneously going up against a government that is neither equipped nor always willing to further their objectives, against all odds, Magic Bus is only getting stronger and managing to impact more and more children’s lives.. boy oh boy am I excited to follow their development!

Now I can tell you with authority that the single best cure for a heavy heart and a

Struggling through

case of dragging of heels is  to reunite with a school friend after 4 years! With the arrival of Inshiya the time had eventually come to bid my home town farewell and venture up north,

so along with Katiana (Insh’s friend from Brazil, that she lived with in Turkey) we

View of the old city – could not be more photogenic!

packed our bags (mine embarrassingly disproportionate to their two week versions) and set off for the 17 hour bus ride to Udaipur –

Crack of dawn and chai in hand!

India’s most romantic city! A city surrounded by palaces and lakes and palaces on lakes and lakes near palaces, she sure is a stunner! Lucky enough to stay at a homestay with a great host,

Please take a moment to appreciate this couples photo (they are setting up for a wedding)

founder of four youth centres in the surrounding villages, we were shown some pretty insider spots to the area which is always nifty! But alas, due to time constraints this is to be a whirlwind of a trip through Rajastan and beyond so on to Jodphur next and then who knows where – yeeehhaaaa!